not only is it a far trek to get to the beach...down a winding path, carrying a 10-foot longboard in sometimes windy conditions, but it's also a long paddle out to the waves.
in high school we charged these waves with no fear. so many close encounters with the reef, holding your breath under water, for what seemed like forever, while you figured out which way was up.
in recent years i had the itch to get in the water again, so i asked my friend to take me out. he took me to some mellow places, which i was perfectly fine with. then one day he told me we were going to diamond head. fear washed over me just as i knew the waves soon would be, too.
i love the workout of riding some easy waves, but anything too big and i start to panic.
"trust me," he said.
and it was the best surf session ever.
would i brave it again...mmmaybe. but today i was
just a spectator.
(jeans, abercrombie & fitch; sweater, random l.a. store; hat, walmart; shoes, jessica simpson)
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